Copic in the Craft Room: Coloring Fur With Strokes

Copic In The Craft Room: Coloring White

Colleen shows us how to color white

"You say CO-pic, I say COP-ic, lets just color!": Copic Design Team member Sharon Harnist is back th...

Posted this one a couple of years ago from the very talented Sharon Harnist, it is very appropriate for this time of year if you're coloring with a lot of reds...







"You say CO-pic, I say COP-ic, lets just color!": Copic Design Team member Sharon Harnist is back th...: Copic Design Team member  Sharon Harnist  is back this week to share some tips for coloring with red Copic markers. Enjoy! It’s the begi...

Copic in the Craft Room: Shading with Complimentary Colors

Great shading tip from Colleen over at "Copic in the craft room."

Great question was posted today, "Please suggest three colors in the earth tones that will give me a deep, rich, brown color with no hints of red?"  Colleen Schaan to the rescue once again with a great run down of what you can expect from the earth tones:

Stay away from the E0's, E1's, E2's. The E3's are a good rich brown. The E4's will give you a desaturated (grayish) brown, the E5's will give you an olive brown, the E7's give a nice brown with a mauve undertone - but I like this for really rich browns... reminds me of coconuts, the E8's will give you a green brown and the E9's will give you a terra-cotta brown.

Solving the mystery of the Copic number system

Straight from the Copic website:

I’ve highlighted two main areas of the close up version of the color wheel.

• The colors within the yellow lines are all of the same saturation, but with varying darkness.

• The colors within the red lines are all of the same darkness, but with varying saturation.

As you look at the greater picture of the Copic Color Wheel, you can see that as colors approach the center of the wheel, they become more gray, and as they approach the clockwise end of their respective color region, they become darker.  The only exception to this rule is saturation for the earth tones, as they incorporate a number of colors, from reds to oranges, yellows and greens; you can see that they have their own system goin’ on!

Your first number is your saturation level.  Your saturation is the amount of gray in the colors...your zero's will have the least amount of gray and therefore, will be a more brilliant color.  The higher the first number the duller the color will become.

Your second number your brightness level and will dictate how dark the color will appear.  With zero being the lightest and 9 being the darkest.

Your colors have two different meaning, therefore, when you refer to the Copic color you are using, it makes sense to say B-3-4, instead of B34.

Copic in the Craft Room: Cleaning Your Markers

Customizing Stamped Flowers Tutorial

Copic in the Craft Room: The Flick

Copic in the Craft Room: 3-Shade Blending

Copic in the Craft Room: Coloring Gold with Copic Markers

http://www.copicmarker.com/shading-with-red-copic-markers

Great "Red" tutorial from Kristy of Some Odd Girl stamps...http://someoddgirl.com

Copic in the Craft Room: Copic Coloring with a Limited Color Palette

Did you know there are 4 different color families for Copic grays? 

Cool Gray has a blue tone.
Neutral Gray is neutral. 
Toner Gray has a slightly brown tone.
Warm Gray has a very brown tone.

Snow (Straight from Copic)..."What colors do you use when you color snow?" One of our favorite "snow" colors is a cool gray-purple... so BV31/BV20 and/or BV23 are perfect!